If your restaurant requires constructive criticism and promotion, I have an empty stomach and a car full of petrol ready. Discretion is assured; bribes are happily accepted.
All photographs and words are my own: I endeavour to review fairly, considering restaurants’ cost, level of trade and intended target market.
Camden was typically frenetic: hordes of the weird and wonderful spilt in from all angles. The Cuban was found nestled in Camden’s eclectic epicentre, buzzing with shoppers resting from buying vintage tracksuits, vinyl and Novocaine.
The Cuban Camden’s boisterous atmosphere seemingly overwhelmed the staff who were less than composed. After politely advising I had booked, menus were shoved in my general direction. I loitered like a lemon, looking for anything resembling a table without success; a second server limply gestured to the lift, leading to a dead second floor.
The Cuban Camden’s menu advised: “our chefs spent time learning traditional Cuban cooking techniques”. The fact tapas should be ordered often and served quickly wasn’t learnt: the food came together and after a long delay.
Regarding The Cuban Camden’s food, the anemic Calamari was the blandest pieces of squid known in existence. I doubt the complete absence of seasoning was part of the “authentic Cuban experience”. Better Olives & Feta can be sourced in Morrisons down the road -hardly the “best Cuban ingredients in London”. The Plantain was okay, but a giant banana served in three pieces didn’t excite. The Chorizo was enjoyed, but this should be the star of any tapas restaurant and was average at best. The Albondigas were well cooked and seasoned but lukewarm. The fried Sweet Potato & Plantain were tasty but just crisps with ideas above their station. Finally, the Chicken Tenders were fine, but which “neighbouring Caribbean Islands” serve schnitzels?
Under normal circumstances, The Cuban Camden is a rip-off tourist trap; however, it is regularly on Groupon providing much better value.
Olive Tree Brasserie Preston, set within the handsome Miller Arcade, is the city’s only Greek restaurant and thankfully didn’t fall prey to cliché emulsion white ruins and checked tablecloths. The Olive Tree Brasserie’s interior was in fact rather industrial, with exposed metal strip lighting, sharp corners and an attractive polished finish. The contrast between the contemporary interior and Victorian exterior created a sophisticated atmosphere which the area cries out for.
Upon arrival at Olive Tree Brasserie Preston, my party was warmly greeted, and shown to the table through a surprisingly busy dining room. Once seated I was majestically bathed in the green neon of the adjacent Subway; you may want to be savvy and select your preferred table in advance. Never one to resist a bargain, I ordered from the Olive Tree Brasserie Preston Early Diner Menu, offering three courses for just £13.50. Although very restricting, it was only to be expected from such a sharp price, and available until a reasonable 7:00 pm (6:45 pm on Friday and Saturday).
Some olives and related nibbles were promptly ordered and arrived very quickly, with the young floor staff continuing to work efficiently throughout the evening. Despite just opening, service at The Olive Tree Brasserie Preston was well organised and polite.
For starters, everyone chose the Dolmades which arrived on miniature pallets for no discernible reason. These three rolled vine leaves, stuffed with rice and minced beef, were the perfect sized starter. They were fresh, delicious but very salty. The extra lemon-dill-cream sauce was pleasingly light and perfectly balanced. Incidentally, their own brand mint-balsamic dressing had an incredible depth of flavour and was liberally applied to everything. A Sauvignon Blanc washed this down with a decent smack of Gooseberry but shrivelled my tongue with brutal tartness.
For mains, the Lavraki sounded intriguing. It was Sea Bass “Spetse Style” – a style not even Google knew about. It arrived looking like it lost a punch up en route to the table. The fish itself was perfectly cooked, with a very salty but at least flavoursome crust. The accompanying Kolokithakia (courgette fritters) were the best thing on the plate. They made for an exciting Mediterranean alternative to chips, which in my head seemed healthier. The sexy Mediterranean cousin of the British mushy peas were the stewed capers, but the last thing salty fish and saltier vegetables needed was the world’s saltiest foodstuff showing off. They were unpalatably bitter and left on the plate. The wine was swapped to Pinot Grigio; overlooking the warm glass, the humble house white had a mineral crispness and was perfectly drinkable.
Friends had the Fishcake & Seasoned Chips and wished they hadn’t. Arriving on a spare cheese board, it was impossible to cut without scattering the contents around the table. The overall flavour of the fishcake was potato rather than fish and equally lacked seasoning. Moving on, the Kota Skordata was a chicken skewer on rice, with dip and a side salad. The meat was nicely marinated, well grilled and succulent. No complaints, but it couldn’t justify its full £13.95 price tag.
Desserts from The Olive Tree Brasserie Preston’s bargain basement menu were an afterthought: generously portioned, but the Berry Compote was so sour only a few mouthfuls could be kept down. Conversely, its partner in crime – the Honey Compote – was so sickly sweet, I saved it for my diabetic brothers’ next hypo.
The ambience and staff were equally pleasant, but the Olive Tree Brasserie Preston’s food demonstrated obvious flaws. However, due to the exceptional early bird prices and positive atmosphere, I can’t hold a grudge.
Olive Tree Brasserie Preston
Review Summary
Atmosphere 7 Cost 9 Quality 3 Service 8
Olive Tree Brasserie – Menu Lacked BalanceOlive Tree Brasserie – Menu Lacked BalanceOlive Tree Brasserie – Menu Lacked BalanceOlive Tree Brasserie – Menu Lacked Balance
I am a massive fan of Raymond Blanc. He begins speaking English with perfection diction, only for his elocution to decline into the utterly incomprehensible. Most know he’s a two Michelin Star chef, but the fact he guided Heston Blumenthal and Marco Pierre White is less well known. When Jay Rayner visited Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, he advised the meal was fabulous, but the cost unjustifiable. Brasserie Blanc provided a respectable job of French Cuisine at a fraction of the cost – worth keeping in mind if your salary is shorter than your phone number.
Brasserie Blanc Beaconsfield began with The Mediterranean Fish Soup, the best fish soup I’d ever slurped – the perfect summery starter. Tasting of the sea, with luxurious saffron bravely avoiding domination by the heavy-hitting garlic. The Bouillabaisse Sea Bream was perfectly cooked and seasoned – a beautiful piece of bright white succulent fish with delicious crispy skin. Unfortunately, the supporting squid and artichoke fought a losing battle against further piles of garlic. Another highlight was the mouth watering Duck Leg Confit, providing incredible depth of flavour with skin that satisfyingly crackled when cut. However, the undercooked lardons were unnecessary, especially when accompanying chorizo. For dessert, Chocolate Soufflé looked magnificent with a beautiful texture, but didn’t pack a particularly prominent chocolaty punch.
Regarding atmosphere, Brasserie Blanc Beaconsfield was teaming with punters creating a real buzz. The interior was tastefully designed and thoughtfully laid out. Although sitting by the side entrance created a rather uncomfortable draft.
Brasserie Blanc Beaconsfield operated at full capacity, thus service was understandably sluggish. However, everyone from the host to the floor staff provided genuine smiles, and worked in a composed manner. Although, when my girlfriend opted for whiskey she was slightly irked by the shocked waiter – when another server was similarly flabbergasted it bordered insulting.
As starters were £7, mains £15 (plus sides) and desserts £6, Brasserie Blanc represented average value for bourgeois Beaconsfield. However, dining from the Early Bird Menu provides outstanding frugality. Why can’t all chain restaurants be like this?
Fantastic Feasts & Where To Find Them 