Bar Review: The Elephant’s Head, Camden

The Elephant’s Head – Victorian Camden

The Elephant’s Head pub is bang in the middle of  Camden Town, a simulacrum of whatever it used to be or thought it was. This one-time home of John Lennon, Charles Dickens and Sir Ambrose Fleming, saw a heroin-chic renascence in the early naughties. The skinny-limbed antics of Amy Winehouse and Pete Doherty preceded Noel Fielding and Russell Brand entertaining audiences by competing to have the silliest hair. Today, Camden’s biggest export is Dappy from N-Dubz.

Others disagree, of course. Alex Proud at The Telegraph is a fan: “Camden was cool in 1994 (and even 1984) and it’s still cool in 2014. It has, dare I say it, sustainable coolness. True, at no point in time will be it be as achingly “now” as a speakeasy in a repurposed public loo in Camberwell selling dirty cocktails in jam jars, but that’s the point”.

For me, Camden falls over itself screaming how alternative it is while trying as hard as possible not to care, as carefully as possible. Camden is a hangout for biker gangs without motorbikes, the worst cocaine in Europe, and enjoys a working-class brashness despite one bedroom flats renting at £3,000 a month.

I’m ranting, because I really wanted to like The Elephant’s Head pub. It’s a scruffy, characterful pub full of scruffy characters, the kind that makes the past-time of London boozing a uniquely British pleasure. I love dark Victorian London Pubs; I like to imagine Jack the Ripper sitting at the bar, nursing a pint of mild, fiddling with a Soduku. The Elephant’s Head dates to 1832, being once part of the famous Camden Town Brewery, producers of ‘Elephant Ale’ in the 1800’s. Feeling like Julian Barrat in Nathan Barley, I sought refuge in something genuine – something with more purpose and age than me – away from the surrounding nonsense. The classic checkered floor, dark wooden bar and low ceilings filled me with hope.

The pub was teaming with leather clad punters, holding what I assumed was a piercing convention. The standard issue Full English and a pint of bitter both did the job and weren’t unreasonably priced, given the fiscal hell-hole that is Zone 1. Unfortunately, members of The Elephant’s Head staff were the sourest, patronising and most abrasive as I’ve come across.

The Elephant’s Head Pub
Review Summary

Atmosphere 6  Cost 6  Quality 5  Service 2

Elephants Head Camden Pub Review
Camden Street Artist (Of Sorts)

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Head Pub Camden

Restaurant Review: Iberica, Manchester

Iberica Manchester – Tip Top Tapas

I loved Iberica Spinningfields. This modern Spanish restaurant pleasingly served dishes separately but rapidly, and in big enough portions to actually share. Iberica Manchester was social eating at its best, something that surprisingly few other Tapas restaurants deliver on.

Iberica Spinningfields didn’t just offer the same chorizo, gambas, calamari, patatas bravas lead menu found everywhere. I love these dishes, but Iberica Spinningfields made a refreshing change. I went weak at the knees laying eyes on their artisan cheese menu; being exclusively Spanish it provided the opportunity to discover new products and flavours.

The Red Berry Gazpacho was the finest cold soup I’d ever eaten. It was alive with vibrancy and just wonderfully summery. I’d never had a more flavoursome dish for £4. The humble Bread & Oil was as good as anywhere. The grilled Padron Peppers were pleasingly salty and made a classy beer accompaniment. The curious Spring Onion Tempura were bronzed crunchy phallic mouthfuls, served with decidedly delicious dips. The Classic Tortilla didn’t let its nation down, providing a perfectly respectable account of itself.

The meaty Sea Trout was lightly cooked and uniquely served with peanuts and Ajo Blanco sauce. The dish was certainly enjoyable, but quite expensive at £8. The Chorizo Lollipops were golden balls of fun, served with an intriguing pear aioli. In the wake of these quirky touches, came the poshest Ham, Egg & Chips in Manchester. The Sliced Cooked Beef was Spain’s answer to Bresaola and every bit as flavourful.

The Churros were piping hot, pleasingly crispy and sugary pieces of happiness. The small but perfectly formed cheese board paired marvellously with the amber-hued viscous sherry. I don’t know anything about sherry, other than that I need to drink more of it.

With the drinks menu heavily marked up and the additional 12.5% service charge, Iberica Spinningfields is at the pricier end of Manchester’s bustling restaurant scene. Given the exciting menu, quality ingredients, sophisticated atmosphere and charming staff, it is still certainly worth exploring.

Iberica Manchester
Review Summary

Atmosphere 10  Cost 6  Quality 10  Service 9

Ibérica Spinningfields Restaurant Review
A decent drop…
Ibérica Spinningfields
Bread & Oil
Ibérica Spinningfields
Outstanding Red Berry Gazpacho
Ibérica Spinningfields Restaurant Review Manchester
Padron Peppers
Ibérica Spinningfields Restaurant Review Manchester
Spring Onion Tempura
Ibérica Spinningfields Restaurant Review Manchester
Sea Trout, Ajoblanca & Pitu Sauce
Ibérica Spinningfields Restaurant Review Manchester
Fried Chorizo Lollipops w/ Pear Alioli
Ibérica Spinningfields Restaurant Review Manchester
Iberico Ham, Egg & Chips
Ibérica Spinningfields Restaurant Review Manchester
Sliced Cooked Beef
Ibérica Spinningfields Restaurant Review Manchester
Churros
Ibérica Spinningfields Restaurant Review Manchester
Cheese

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Restaurant Review: The Italian Orchard, Broughton (Preston)

The Italian Orchard- Consistently Consistent

I’m lucky to have visited The Italian Orchard Broughton at least thirty times; it’s seemingly been around since The Colosseum. The Italian Orchard Broughton conservatory is the best dining room in the Preston area: bathed in natural light and framed by cared for colourful flowers, it felt like Asti, not the A6.  Not explicitly reserving a table there constitutes a culinary schoolboy error.

The Italian Orchard Broughton menu was overwhelming: the specials menu alone was heftier than your average àl la carte. The industrious kitchen must be huge to accommodate the expansive ingredients and cooking processes. I’d like to have seen a sense of Italian regionality rather than mass appeal. Similarly, The Italian Orchard Broughton wine list was equally vast, yet almost exclusively Italian to its credit. Drinks bordered the expensive side of reasonable, but its mid-price point swelled with a plethora of quaffable options. A notable sauvignon blanc was selected which offered attractive notes of sage and green pepper, as opposed to the usual passionfruit or gooseberry.

The bread and olives were fine and dandy but unremarkable given they’re Italian staples. The garlic bread was punchy, salty and comforting as ever. The oriental tempura king prawns were satisfyingly crispy, without suggesting they could ever be greasy. The calamari was lightly cooked to avoid becoming elastic but consequently lacked colour.

For mains, the mare e monti was an elegant combination of crayfish and prawns in a sophisticated creamy sauce. I rarely plaice place mushrooms with seafood but see no reason not to now. The seafood risotto was generously portioned, providing both quantity and quality. Punctuated with a delicious variety of fresh fishy bits and pieces, including handsome wobbly scallops. The rice was formed with precision, with carefully seasoned stock and attractively served in a crab shell. This was the highlight of the evening and the Italian Orchard’s best value dish. The classic spaghetti bolognese had married together well, not disgracing its proud Italian roots, although I could have done without its cress haircut. The Sea Bass was a handsome white hunk, nicely seared, served next to some lovingly prepared baby potatoes and old-school chunky veg. Presentation is all plain white plates that do the job, but without finesse.

There was only room for a little gelato; those in the know opt for salted caramel and black cherry. Finally, the espresso was as robust as can be found anywhere.

Aside from the initially forgotten garlic bread, the Italian Orchard kitchen produced everything strikingly quickly and all on reassuringly hot plates. There was a never-ending flurry of young Italians zipping about in bright white shirts taking care of customers – none of whom laughed at anyone’s pathetic attempts at parlando Italiano. Likewise, I received a proper welcome and goodbye, and someone was always an (olive) stone’s throw away. I’d suggest, The Italian Orchard Broughton is a restaurant equally worth visiting for a simple pizza and glass of montepulciano to a more formal occasion, for those with appetites for hearty but not adventurous tastes.

The Italian Orchard
Review Summary

Atmosphere 10  Cost 7  Quality 8  Service 9

Italian Orchard Restaurant Review Preston
Bread & Olives
Italian Orchard Restaurant Review Preston
Oriental Tempura King Prawns
Italian Orchard Restaurant Review Preston
Garlic Bread
Italian Orchard Restaurant Review Preston
Calamari
Italian Orchard Restaurant Review Preston
Risotto di Frutti di Mare
Italian Orchard Restaurant Review Preston
Spaghetti Bolognese
Italian Orchard Restaurant Review Preston
Mari e Monti
Italian Orchard Restaurant Review Preston
Fillets of Sea Bass
Italian Orchard Restaurant Review Preston
Salted Caramel & Black Cherry Ice Cream

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Orchard Broughton