Tag: Fine Dining

Restaurant Review: The Ivy, The West End

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The Ivy – A League Of Its Own

It’s difficult to say anything that’s not already been said about the iconic Ivy restaurant. Living in the North, I’d only visited twice; yet, The Ivy is my favourite British restaurant  – I cannot give it a greater compliment.

I loved The Ivy for being so understated: the Art Deco building oozed style without trying. More cynical types may say it’s dated, but The Ivy had a real sophistication without pretentiousness. What’s great was the mixture of people; old money types, no money types (me), minor celebrities, families, tourists, ladies who lunch and fathers and sons.

Service at The Ivy on both times was spot on: the amount of polished staff that briskly trotted past without flying arse-over-tit was amazing. The Ivy was obviously a well-run restaurant – confident in its abilities – taking a serious amount of choreography.

Regarding cost, The Ivy Set Lunch provided good value. Unless you’re looking for something offensively ostentatious, it will provide you and yours with plenty of good eats. The al la carte wasn’t cheap, but not as ridiculously expensive as other top London restaurants. The Bang Bang Chicken provided plenty of bang for your buck (or chuck). The Roast Lamb dish was the personification of a glorious spring morning. The Steak Tartar was as good anywhere – either side of the channel. Desserts weren’t a highlight; some pineapple thing was a waste of time, but the Sticky Toffee Pudding was a comfort blanket on a plate.

The food was of the highest standard: just simple flavours but with real depth. One could argue The Ivy’s menu was miss matched, but everything sounded tempting and looked equally delicious. It was proper (predominantly) British cooking at it’s best. If you’re not driving (who is in central London?), you owe it yourself to have a cocktail either before or after your meal – they really are excellent.

I’d eat here every week if I could.

The Ivy Restaurant
Review Summary

Atmosphere 10  Cost 6  Quality 9  Service 10

The Ivy London Restaurant Review
The Ivy: Simple, British, Delicious
The Ivy London Restaurant Review
The Ivy: Simple, British, Delicious

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(Original) Restaurant

Restaurant Review: Angels, Ribchester

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Angels Restaurant – Still Heavenly

Angels Restaurant Ribchester has held or flirted with, Trip Advisor’s top Preston spot for considerable time – building up significant local support. With an empty stomach, I booked myself in for Angels special Autumn Food Month menu…

After I greedily ate too much posh bread, Angels Restaurant Ribchester started with ‘smoked sweet corn & lime soup confit chicken’ – an unusual ensemble, which worked surprisingly well. I didn’t associate limes with autumn, but it added freshness, balancing the moist, flavoursome meat and provided a zingy talking point if nothing else.

Angels Restaurant Ribchester’s Fish Course produced wonderfully presented ‘seared mackerel, beetroot, horseradish, celeriac’. Gloriously in season with pleasingly blistered skin, the oily fish against the sharp beetroot is a classic combination I’ll never tire of. I finished the plate noting that I must remember to buy more beetroot.

Angels Restaurant Ribchester’s Main Course proudly consisted of ‘Guineafowl, spiced squash & mushroom Bolognese’. Who puts Bolognese with guineafowl? I don’t care if your Italian family’s Bolognese recipe’s passed down mother-to-daughter for generations – it couldn’t compete. A delicately piped thimble of creamy mash and ethereal micro leaves framed the rich guineafowl. It was so succulent I wondered why anyone bothers with turkey?

Angels Restaurant Ribchester’s Dessert produced a ‘Blueberry chocolate blondie, caramelised apple, & caramel cream’. This was how puddings should be – indulgent – not comma-inducing. As if that wasn’t enough, the ‘Northumberland Baltic ale-washed cheese, fruit & peanut loaf’ concluded the consumption, although I wasn’t blown away: I viewed the vaguely geriatric quality of the dried fruit and nut loaves with suspicion.

I haven’t mentioned wine because I’ve gone on long enough; however, the pinot noir was a general crowd-pleaser for this time of year when we eat little else but dead birds. For a tricky dessert pairing the ‘Concha y Toro Late Harvest Sauvignon’ with its light honey and peach flavours was just lovely with their creamy dessert.

A lot of thought and effort had gone into the interior of Angels Restaurant Ribchester. Perhaps the glitz won’t be to the taste of conservative persuasions. For my money, Angels Restaurant Ribchester got it just right, with a tastefully muted colour scheme with a touch of kitsch humour. Restaurants need an element of fun – how they achieve that while retaining their professionalism is a big challenge – but one Angels Restaurant Ribchester answered.

Finally, just as much effort was exerted by their hard-working shiny young staff, who will almost certainly make your meal an enjoyable one should you be lucky to visit.

Angels Restaurant
Review Summary

Atmosphere 9   Cost 10    Quality 9    Service 9

Angels Restaurant Ribchester Review
Guineafowl, Spiced Squash, Raisins, Mushroom Bolognese
Angels Restaurant Ribchester Review
Mackerel, Beetroot, Horseradish, Celeriac
Angels Restaurant Ribchester Review
Smoked Sweetcorn & Lime Soup, Chicken Confit
Angels Restaurant Ribchester Review
Blueberry Chocolate Brownie & Caramel Cream

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Ribchester

Restaurant Review: Mr Cooper’s House & Garden, Manchester

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Mr Cooper’s – A Barrel Of Fun

I was greatly looking forward to Mr Cooper’s Home & Garden restaurant, being a long-time fan boy of Simon Rogan. In the unlikely event, my bank balance reaches even just three figures, I will visit one of his Michelin starred establishments In the meantime, thankfully Mr Cooper’s provided an affordable approach to fine dining.

Mr Cooper’s is housed on the ground floor of the imposing Midland Hotel, a grand Edwardian building, with distinctive Baroque architecture. The restaurant has a quirky heritage, with the eccentric interior design being both impressive and unpretentious. As a side note, the eponymous Mr Cooper was a something of a Manchester local legend back in the day, owning a house & garden back on the site in 1819. He was a passionate horticulturist and intrigued by the science and art of cultivating flowers, fruits, vegetables and ornamental plants.

The starters were reasonably priced for food of this quality, ranging from £4 to £8.50. Unusual touches on classic flavour combinations were the pleasing hallmark of the menu. The deep-fried prawns, mango and chorizo marmalade, were succulent and delicious. The corned bread, chicken livers with mango chutney and watercress, were simple but scrumptious.

Mr Cooper’s is an excellent choice for pescatarians, with lovely fish and vegetation options. The mussel, monkfish and potato romesco let the quality of the ingredients shine through, as did the halibut baked in a cabbage leaf, with broad beans and Vin Blanc. Both were presented beautifully, pairing perfectly with the not outrageously priced Chilean Sauvignon Blanc. The side order of deep fried pickles was staggeringly moreish – so good they can’t have been legal.

Desserts at Mr Cooper’s restaurant sounded interesting but were not the highlight. White chocolate cake with pineapple cardamom compote had all my favourite flavours together in one place. It should have been memorable, but was a little dry. The peanut parfait with marinated strawberries and sweet cucumber syrup didn’t inspire, but credit for providing such quirky options. I doubt even Nigella Lawson won’t be bothered to whip up cucumber and peanut deserts after work.

All the staff were conversational, smart and down-to-earth. Service at Mr Coopers’s was perfectly pleasant although sluggish in delivery. A final and important point should be given to the bar. As they correctly proclaim: “Manchester needed a proper, grown-up bar” – and this is it. Mr Cooper’s cocktail list is as fine as anywhere, with a sophisticated and exciting broader drinks menu. Unique options such as the East Amber Dram Sour, consisting of sesame seed infused scotch whisky, pear, lemon, lemongrass, egg white, served with lemongrass and pear slices, will make the synapses sparkle of any proper drinker.

Mr Cooper’s Review Summary

Atmosphere 10  Cost 8  Quality 8  Service 9

Mr Cooper's Restaurant Review Manchester
Mr Cooper’s – I just want to leave here
Mr Cooper's Restaurant Review Manchester
Always a great shout

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House & Garden