Bar Review: Le Beaujolais, The West End

Le Beaujolais – Wine Down & People Watch

Being turned away from The Ivy was embarrassing; I felt heartbroken, like a teenager who’s object of desire remained unrequited. I lamented that I’d ironed a shirt and cleaned my ears for no reason. However, all was not lost as I stumbled across the charming Le Beaujolais practically next-door.

Le Beaujolais looked French, felt French, tasted French…it even sounded French. But there was something distinctively alien, betraying that authentically French feel. I couldn’t immediately put my finger on it. Then it hit me. Sacré bleu! The staff were welcoming, helpful and cheerful. Obviously, this kind of attitude wouldn’t survive in Paris, but their loss is our gain. I later discovered that Le Beaujolais is London’s oldest French wine bar, with downstairs reserved as an intriguing member’s only club.

Do you remember Tie Rack; those cubicles offering a plethora of patterned neck wear, for sales reps who’d spilt their latte on the Virgin Pendolino? This is what Le Beaujolais is, with the addition of an excellent cheese and wine selection. I have no idea why hundreds of ties dangle from the ceiling like polyester stalactites, but it was all rather fun. Ironically, these numerous appendages, meant Le Beaujolais would be my ideal place to commit suicide, should the need present itself.

Nestled in the heart of theatre-land, sitting outside Le Beaujolais with a bottle of something French provided a perfect people watching spot. A high-quality meat filled baguette was sneaked into proceedings, served with an unusually violent harissa. My only gripe was the stingy sized wine glasses – they didn’t do justice to the high-quality wine served.

Le Beaujolais Review Summary

Atmosphere 9/10    Cost 6/10    Quality 8/10    Service 8/10

Le Beaujolais London Restaurant Review
Wine and bread; what the French do best.

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Restaurant Review: The Ivy, The West End

The Ivy – A League Of Its Own

It’s difficult to say anything that’s not already been said about the iconic Ivy restaurant. Living in the North, I’d only visited twice; yet, The Ivy is my favourite British restaurant  – I cannot give it a greater compliment.

I loved The Ivy for being so understated: the Art Deco building oozed style without trying. More cynical types may say it’s dated, but The Ivy had a real sophistication without pretentiousness. What’s great was the mixture of people; old money types, no money types (me), minor celebrities, families, tourists, ladies who lunch and fathers and sons.

Service at The Ivy on both times was spot on: the amount of polished staff that briskly trotted past without flying arse-over-tit was amazing. The Ivy was obviously a well-run restaurant – confident in its abilities – taking a serious amount of choreography.

Regarding cost, The Ivy Set Lunch provided good value. Unless you’re looking for something offensively ostentatious, it will provide you and yours with plenty of good eats. The al la carte wasn’t cheap, but not as ridiculously expensive as other top London restaurants. The Bang Bang Chicken provided plenty of bang for your buck (or chuck). The Roast Lamb dish was the personification of a glorious spring morning. The Steak Tartar was as good anywhere – either side of the channel. Desserts weren’t a highlight; some pineapple thing was a waste of time, but the Sticky Toffee Pudding was a comfort blanket on a plate.

The food was of the highest standard: just simple flavours but with real depth. One could argue The Ivy’s menu was miss matched, but everything sounded tempting and looked equally delicious. It was proper (predominantly) British cooking at it’s best. If you’re not driving (who is in central London?), you owe it yourself to have a cocktail either before or after your meal – they really are excellent.

I’d eat here every week if I could.

The Ivy Restaurant
Review Summary

Atmosphere 10  Cost 6  Quality 9  Service 10

The Ivy London Restaurant Review
The Ivy: Simple, British, Delicious
The Ivy London Restaurant Review
The Ivy: Simple, British, Delicious

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(Original) Restaurant

Bar Review: The Dorchester, Mayfair

The Dorchester Bar – Bourgeois Boozing

Strolling down Mayfair’s Park Lane, my lack of gaudy supercar and harem retinue ironically made me more conspicuous. Thankfully, The Dorchester doormen were completely unpretentious and perfectly polite, warmly welcoming my drinking buddy and me through polished opened doors. First impressions were stunning: the scent of fresh flowers washed over me like a luxurious feminine tidal wave.

The Dorchester Bar was opulent but felt dated – not F. Scott Fitzgerald retro hedonism dated – I just mean dated-dated. The lack of windows, oppressive purples and glossy surfaces were reminiscent of a low-stakes casino. The shiny pink stalagmites which surrounded the place were just bizarre. I was expecting The Dorchester Bar to offer timeless British glamour, not The Crystal Maze Mayfair Zone. I’m not sure if this was the interior designer’s way of forcing a contemporary edge, but I had never seen anything quite like it.

Regarding The Dorchester Bars value, there is nothing worse than someone complaining about drink prices; however, £20 for a gin and tonic is ridiculous. Although not as silly as the tin foil paint jobs on the supercars littering the entrance. People have rated The Dorchester ‘Excellent’ for value on TripAdvisor. Who the hell spends £80 on four G&Ts and thinks: “I just can’t believe the outstanding value!” I imagine Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum has better things to do with his time. The Dorchester Drinks Menu itself was comprehensive and elegant as one would expect. While the glassware was the prettiest I’d ever handled. The Dorchester Bar was a place for proper cocktail drinkers: strawberry daiquiri lovers need not apply. The Brooklyn was properly excellent, and I became obsessed with the sticky, salty, delicious nibbles.

Regarding service, the gentleman working the bar was permanently elegantly poised, and no doubt skilled in the art of libations, but wasn’t particularly engaging. Perhaps staff were instructed to behave in this corporate manner, or maybe that’s just what The Dorchester’s clientele prefers. I would have liked to have seen his fun side; after all, if you can’t have a good time in a bar, where can you? I wasn’t demanding a game of beer pong!

The Bar at The Dorchester is a unique place, worth a visit for any cocktail enthusiast, but only ones with very deep pockets. I wouldn’t bother with the Champagne Simmer – I can live without the ‘gold dust and The Dorchester Lip Gloss’ – especially for £40. Although that’s nothing compared to Louis XIII: an eye-watering £1,600 a measure, plus £200 service charge for pouring. Across the sparsely populated Dorchester Bar was the most miserable woman I had ever seen drinking champagne; I didn’t know it was possible to drink Bollinger and simultaneously retain such a scowl. She was a spiritual meme for money not equating to happiness, as I visualised my bank balance dwindling to zero with a smile.

The Dorchester Bar
Review Summary

Atmosphere 4/10    Cost 2/10    Quality 10/10    Service 9/10

I'm only jealous
The Dorchester: I’m only jealous

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The Dorchester Bar