Tag: Tapas

Restaurant Review: The Coach, Marlow

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The Coach – No Return (Meal) Ticket

I wanted to love The Coach Marlow (formely The Coach and Horses). Mainly as I love Tom Kerridge aka the happiest man on the plant (close second, Kriss Akabusi). This lovely looking gastropub helpfully only takes walk-ins, acting as a spill-over sight for it’s even higher-end sister site The Hand & Flowers down the road, where there is a year long waiting list for their Michelin star Sunday roasts. I couldn’t wait a year and I’m too poor, so The Coach Marlow it was.

Only visit The Coach Marlow if you: can drop any preconceptions, foolishly appreciate tapas, are minted and not hungry. I am none of the above, thus left discontented. I love Mr Kerridge with his amicable West Country patois and proper pub-grub philosophy; disappointingly, The Coach Marlow ignores it.

Controversial opinion – tapas is pointless – a Mediterranean euphemism for expensive inefficiency. Only madmen want dishes to arrive schizophrenically.  The standard excuse is: “To try bits of everything!”. Which is nonsense because portions are so small, only cold crumbs remain once shared. Order your preferences then trade bits later damn it. In any other context, new cutlery is provided and smaller courses sensibly arrive first – nobody thinks anything of it. Tapas means culinary human rights are waived in favour of a needless continental concept.

Rant over (almost). Sitting at The Coach Marlow bar provides stimulating views of the industrious open kitchen; an ideal first date rendezvous, providing distractions from potential awkward silences. The hard-working young kitchen team, went about their business in a focused manner. Unfortunately, everyone else was cramped together. At least I was lucky enough to get a table, or so I thought. Modern televisions were strategically placed, all the fixtures and fittings were handsomely fitted, and the lighting was pleasingly low. 

Everything on The Coach Marlow’s menu sounded delicious. I was expecting a real treat here. The format was oddly split between ‘Meat’ and ‘No Meat’, yet meat’s in both sections:  a practical joke, quirkiness or a genuine mistake, I know not. Furthermore, the descriptions didn’t hint at the wildly varying portions, making things unnecessarily fiddly. Was this a pub or some kind of puzzle…

Everything looked more than appetising, the food I mean, not the staff, I’m not that weird. Anyway, dishes were creatively arranged and housed in beautiful, earthy crockery. You felt that touch of quality. The Coach Marlow produced initially interesting dishes, which later left one puzzled and unsatisfied, rather than intrigued and impressed. The Whisky & Rye Pudding was cold rather than warm – evidently an error of judgement for any winter pudding. The Venison Chilli had the kick of a paraplegic and served grittily under-cooked. A pricey piece of Lamb carried a shameful amount of flaccid fat. The Pigs Head was a delicate croquette rather than something intimidating. This was all lamentable, as the depth of flavour across all dishes was impressive.

The Triple Cooked Chips & Béarnaise were memorable – undisputed world champion pieces of potato. However, as chips were the highlight, The Coach Marlow left me dissatisfied.

The Coach Review Summary

Atmosphere 9  Cost 2  Quality 6  Service 6

The Coach Marlow Restaurant Review
The gigantic pigs head
The Coach Marlow Restaurant Review
Probably the best chips in the world
The Coach Marlow Restaurant Review
Cold whisky pudding

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Restaurant Review: Pond, Preston

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Pond – Licensed To Grill

Pond is a mid-sized independent tapas Preston restaurant, with a homely and distinctive feel. Some may think its bold, warm colours are intimate; others would say enclosing – either way, Pond had character.

Pond’s menu was extensive and all sounded delicious. Diners were spoilt for choice,  yet the menu held itself together enough not to disorientate. Pond provided unusual choices, which kept a potentially tired format interesting. Most of the food was very good and was all presented attractively; however, it got carried away with itself in places as the ‘Chicken – Raspberry Pepper’ sounded exciting but had no balance of flavour. I may as well have had a bowl of raspberries. The benchmark for any tapas restaurant is their chorizo; Pond’s sticky chorizo was very generously portioned and didn’t hold back on the chilli. Having tried most of the menu (in a large group), the standout dish was the ‘Luv a duk’, with an incredible depth of flavour. This brought a smile to all who were wise enough to try it. The chilli chocolate ice cream was an interesting way to finish a meal; not for everyone, but certainly a talking point. A leper could count on one hand the number of restaurants that offer memorable dishes in Preston City Centre – this was one of them.

Given the high-quality ingredients and healthy portion sizes, Pond offered average value for tapas in Preston, although being charged for tap water (despite ordering various bottles of wine) seemed below the belt.

Pond’s staff were welcoming but slightly confused by the order. Nor was there the capacity to discuss the food in any regard – the hallmark of good service. I requested Sangria, which although not on the menu, was presumed unchallenging for a tapas restaurant. I can only assume this was the servers first weak attempt at such an exotic concoction.

Pond’s food was sluggish to appear, not a massive issue, but the concept of tapas is to order little and often, not hungrily wait for everything to arrive together. Frustrating as one is forced to wolf down the food while it’s still hot, rather than enjoy the flavours to their full potential.

Overall Pond is a characterful restaurant with some proper cooking going on. It provided an intimate atmosphere and great flavours. Something that Preston city centre is in short supply of.

Pond Review Summary

Atmosphere 8    Cost 6    Quality 8   Service 5

Duk Preston Restaurant Review
Porky Goodness

Duk Preston Restaurant Review
Cheesy Goodness

*Since this review was first published, Pond is unfortunately no longer with us – hence the lack of link*

Restaurant Review: Evuna NQ, Manchester

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Evuna NQ – Slices of Spanish Sunshine

Evuna NQ’s a corner of non-descript scruffy buildings, not doing justice to the hidden charms inside. The NQ hipster enclave of Manchester has far more than its fair share of exciting places to eat and drink; despite stiff competition, this charming tapas restaurant is worth seeking out.

Evuna NQ’s lunch-time menu of three tapas for £9.90 with slightly reduced wine prices offered decent value. In short, all six tapas dishes were wolfed down. The menu was limited and ultimately predictable; but, as everything served was tasty, nobody cared. Unless against your religion, it is a sin to not eat the spicy chorizo in red wine. Even if it is, take one for the team and get it down you – I was on my hands and knees praying in gratitude. Even the house red provided an excellent match, making me glad I was alive. The calamari was perfectly reasonable but lacked colour, while his best buddy aioli did him proud. The meatballs were meanly portioned but nicely spiced, and served in a purposeful tomato sauce. Some further meat on a stick managed to be both juicy and well caramelised. Everything was generally as it should be; Evuna NQ left me feeling alright with the world.

Evuna NQ created a relaxed yet very tasteful atmosphere, provided by the solid wooden furniture, exposed brickwork, and soft lighting. While the staff were all warm, welcoming and happy to help. The danger of Evuna NQ lunch visits is the wine is too tempting to leave. I’m less inclined to go for dinner – this was food to nibble at – not feast on. Still, Evuna NQ was a touch of sunshine, in a permanently drizzly spot.

Evuna NQ
Review Summary

Atmosphere 8    Cost 7    Quality 7    Service 8

Evuna NQ Manchester Restaurant Review
The usual suspects…

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